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Guides›Bead mold
CRAFTS 6 minUpdated: October 2026

Bead mold

Quick answer

The Bead mold is two blocks, base and lid, with facing half-spheres: drop in a ball of clay, close, press and out comes a round bead. By default it has 3 cavities of 12, 14 and 16 mm, with alignment pins and a needle guide.

What the generator does and doesn't do

Handled by the generator
  • Carves the same row of half-spheres into both blocks: 3 by default, of 12, 14 and 16 mm, with the sizes spread evenly between the smallest and the largest bead
  • Adds two 4 mm pins at opposite corners of the base and their holes in the lid, with 0.25 mm of clearance per side, so the halves don't shift when you press
  • Opens a 1.5 mm needle guide through the lid to each cavity, and a blind hole under each cavity of the base
  • Engraves each cavity's diameter on both long sides of each block and cuts a notch at each end to pry the mold open
  • Delivers the base and the lid in the same file, cavities facing up, to print without supports
→ Up to you
  • →Always putting the same amount of clay in each cavity, so it doesn't overflow at the seam
  • →Piercing the bead: the guide marks the spot, and you supply the needle or toothpick
  • →Choosing the sizes: this product doesn't use your image, everything is set from the panel

How the mold works

Each cavity is a sphere centered right on the parting face: the base holds the bottom half and the lid the top half. When you close it, the two half-spheres form the whole bead.

The block grows with the cavities. The width is the largest bead plus twice the “Wall” (16 + 2 × 4 = 24 mm) and the height is half the largest bead plus the “Base” (8 + 3 = 11 mm). With the default values, each block measures 76 × 24 × 11 mm and the closed mold is 22 mm tall.

The pins sit at opposite corners, so the lid fits in only one position. The lid's numbers are engraved rotated: with the mold closed they read upright, above the ones on the base.

Cross-section of the closed bead mold: lid and base of 11 mm each, three cavities of 12, 14 and 16 mm, 4 mm pins and a 1.5 mm needle guide; beside it, the base seen from above with the pins at opposite corners.
Each cavity is half a sphere in the base and half in the lid: when closed, they form the whole bead.
1

Open the Bead mold

In the product picker it's under “Custom”, with the STUDIO label: designing it and seeing it in the preview needs no plan, but to download it you need the Studio plan.

It doesn't use an image: with this guide's button the designer opens straight to the settings. The “Parameters” panel shows in full in any mode of “How much do you want to adjust?”.

2

Choose the beads

Under “Bead cavities”, “Number of cavities” starts at 3 (from 1 to 12). “Smallest bead” starts at 12 mm (from 4 to 40) and “Largest bead” at 16 mm (from 4 to 60).

With more than one cavity, the sizes in between are spread evenly between the smallest and the largest. With just one, the cavity uses the “Largest bead”.

3

Adjust the mold

Under “Mold”, “Wall” is the material between one cavity and the next and around the row: 4 mm (from 2 to 10). “Base” is what's left under the deepest cavity: 3 mm (from 1.5 to 8).

“Alignment pin” starts at 4 mm (from 0 to 8; at 0, no pins) and “Needle guide” at 1.5 mm (from 0 to 3; at 0, no hole). “Engraved numbers” is on by default.

4

Download and print

The base and the lid come in the same file, side by side with the cavities facing up: they print together and without supports. In the preview, the base shows beige and the lid blue.

You need a filament 3D printer (FDM) and PLA or PETG filament.

5

Shape the beads

Put a ball of polymer clay or cold porcelain in each cavity of the base. Flip the lid over, fit the holes onto the pins, close and press.

Push the needle or a toothpick through the guide in the lid to leave the bead's hole. To open it, use the notch at the ends.

Quick tips
Always use the same amount of clay in each cavity: any extra overflows at the seam.
For beads of a single size, set “Smallest bead” and “Largest bead” to the same value.
With “Alignment pin” at 0, the mold comes out without pins and the ends get shorter: the pin area (the pin plus 5 mm at each end) becomes just the “Wall”.
The base has a blind hole under each cavity: the needle goes all the way through the bead without hitting the plastic.
More “Wall” and more “Base” make the mold stiffer and better able to take the pressing.
ParameterDefaultRange
Number of cavities31-12
Smallest bead12 mm4-40 mm
Largest bead16 mm4-60 mm
Wall4 mm2-10 mm
Base3 mm1.5-8 mm
Alignment pin4 mm0-8 mm
Needle guide1.5 mm0-3 mm
Engraved numbersOnOn / off
MeasurementDefaultComes from
Each block76 × 24 × 11 mmCavities, “Wall”, “Base” and pins
Closed mold76 × 24 × 22 mmBase and lid together
Pin4 mm diameter, 3 mm tall“Alignment pin”
Pin hole in the lid4.5 mmThe pin plus 0.25 mm per side
Engraved numbers4 mm tall, 0.6 mm deepBlock height

Beads not coming out right: what to change first

The clay overflows at the seam
Use less clay and always the same amount in each cavity
The halves shift when you press
Check that “Alignment pin” isn't at 0
The lid won't go onto the pins
Turn it: the pins sit at opposite corners and fit in only one position
The bead comes out without a hole
Raise “Needle guide” above 0 and pierce through it
The numbers look backwards in the preview
That's normal: in the downloaded file they read upright
The mold comes out too long
Lower “Number of cavities”, “Largest bead” or “Wall”

Troubleshooting

The clay overflows at the seam
Cause: There's more clay than room in the cavity.
Fix: Use less clay and always the same amount in each cavity.
If it persists: Make one test ball per cavity and use that size as the measure for the next ones.
The halves shift when you press
Cause: With “Alignment pin” at 0, the mold comes out without pins and nothing locks the lid.
Fix: Raise “Alignment pin”: it starts at 4 mm, up to 8 mm.
If it persists: If you raise the “Wall”, the block gets sturdier and flexes less when you press.
The lid doesn't fit on the base
Cause: The pins sit at opposite corners: the lid goes on in only one position.
Fix: Flip the lid over along its length and turn it until the holes line up over the pins.
If it persists: Set “Alignment pin” to 0: the mold comes out without pins and you close it by lining up the edges of the two blocks.
The bead comes out without a hole
Cause: “Needle guide” is at 0, so the mold has no hole.
Fix: Set it to 1.5 mm (or up to 3 mm) and push the needle through the guide with the mold closed.
If it persists: If your needle is thicker than the guide, raise “Needle guide” toward 3 mm.
The numbers look backwards or mirrored
Cause: The preview shows each piece mirrored compared with the file, which flips on download so it prints with the cavities facing up.
Fix: Don't change anything: in the downloaded file they read upright, and the lid's do once you flip it over to close the mold.
If it persists: If you don't want them, turn off “Engraved numbers”.
With one cavity it comes out the size of the largest
Cause: With a single cavity, the mold uses the “Largest bead”.
Fix: Set “Largest bead” to the diameter you want.
If it persists: For two sizes, raise “Number of cavities” to 2: you get the smallest and the largest.
I can't download the mold
Cause: The Bead mold has the STUDIO label.
Fix: Downloading it requires the Studio plan.
If it persists: Designing it and seeing it in the preview needs no plan: you can build it before deciding.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need to upload an image?
No. The Bead mold doesn't use an image: the sizes, the pins and the needle guide are chosen in the panel.
How many beads do I make at a time?
One per cavity: 3 by default and up to 12 in the same mold.
How big can they be?
“Largest bead” goes up to 60 mm and “Smallest bead” goes from 4 to 40 mm. The block grows with the largest bead.
What do I print it with and what clay do I use?
With a filament printer (FDM), in PLA or PETG. It's used with polymer clay or cold porcelain.
Which plan do I need?
The Studio plan to download it. Designing it and seeing it needs no plan.

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Keep reading

String roller →3D texture roller →Print settings by product →Best filaments for each product →
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